Posted by: sunnymesainfo | July 8, 2010

Dying Grass Problem

Lawn or turf problems can occur in small areas or larger patches, or entire lawns can die. Sometimes the problems are due to poor growing conditions or compacted soil, improper lawn care practices or extreme weather conditions. Is your grass dying in certain areas? We call those areas, stress spots. The grass is either dying or dead.

This year in southern Arizona, it didn’t get over a 100 degrees until June. Bermuda grass grows at night in temperatures above 65 degrees and got a start in late April, but didn’t have a good chance to take over because the temperatures during the day weren’t hot enough to get rid of the winter ryegrass. Because the extreme heat was tardy this year, the Bermuda grass blossomed later. The difficult turf transition this year has made it difficult for the rye to burn out and the Bermuda to properly fill in. Resulting in stress spots.

There are two main resons for “stress spots”. One is from the turf transition and the other is from hard pan or compacted soil as a result of inadequate watering or soild conditioning. You could of had a successful transition or never planted winter rye in the fall and the Bermuda grass would have grown in fine. These spots occur usually from inadequate watering. Early detection will solve most of your problems. If you notice the grass turning blue, that is the first clue the water is inadequate.

To help promote Bermuda grass growth, you can do one or more of a few things. Aeration is always good as it allows oxygen into the soil. Sulpher and Gypsum also helps loosen soil and lowers the pH. In the summer months, add ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) fertilizer to your lawn every three to four weeks at a rate of five pounds per thousand square feet.. Be sure to check and adjust as needed all the sprinkler heads for proper coverage. It may require installing a few new replacement sprinkler heads. My favorite trick to obtaining a pro-active lawn is to leave a hose with trickling water on the stress spot and let it soak in really well. Some areas may require an hour while others can take two or three hours of the slow trickle. Yards with mounds or slopes may require some of this extra attention.

For more questions regarding “stress spots” or if you would like a free quote, call Sunny Mesa Landscaping 480-832-3504.

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Posted by: sunnymesainfo | June 24, 2010

Experiencing Tree Problems?

Do you have a tree that is driving you nuts? Well it needs to be trimmed or removed! With the help of Sunny Mesa Landscaping, we can free you from your tree problems. Please call us for a FREE quote 480-832-3504 or 602-402-0578.

Posted by: sunnymesainfo | May 19, 2010

Tree Trimming

Trees can be of value to your family and home. If you’re thinking about planting trees in your yard, know that they can increase your property value. It is crucial to prune your trees regularly to avoid major damage during a storm. If you prune properly it will prolong the lives of your trees.

You will notice that each tree variety is different when it comes to pruning them. Mentioned below is a great pruning process that will keep your trees groomed and healthy. Follow this process for the best results:

March & April – Deciduous Trees: Everything is in bloom. Heavy fruit, seed, and flower production is taking place. Some trees will shed foliage to put energy into fruit or flower production. Don’t be alarmed by this. Ash and African Sumac are tree varieties that can get very heavy at this time. Pruning may be necessary to prevent limb failure. Do not allow any tree arborist or landscaper to “thin” an Ash tree. They should only be slightly “elevated” and or “crown reduced” no more than 20% to be on the safe side. The outer leaves shut down during super hot days and the inner leaves are the only ones left to produce the starches that are needed for survival. If thinning is done on Ash trees, 10% die out will occur every year until the tree can’t survive any longer. Bark and Cambium on trees are very sensitive in April. Injury to bark can easily occur if not careful during pruning process, so I make sure to wear soft footwear while climbing trees this time of year (no logger boots).

May through July – Palm Trees: Hold off on pruning palms until early to mid-summer, depending on variety.

November through March – Pine Trees:

  • Pruning – The best time to prune your pine trees is during winter months. Pines tend to be very messy when pruned in the summer due to sap dripping out of the pruning cuts. Pruning your pine trees during the cooler months of the year will help keep your sidewalks, homes, cars and children as clean as possible. On some pines once the interior foliage is removed it will not grow back. For this reason, interior thinning should be done conservatively on pine trees. Mainly dead wood and heavy end weight on tips of branches should be removed. It is also a good idea to inspect the structure for any potential hazards, splits, inclusions between large branch attachments, excessive end weight, or tree imbalance that results in a heavy lean. Dead wood in any tree can increase the chance of a fungal infection.
  • Watering – It is very important to continue watering pine trees regularly through the winter months. Some area pine trees are native to climates where they would normally get the majority of their water by rainfall in the winter months.

February through April – Citrus Trees: Citrus season is in the late winter or early spring. It’s best to prune citrus trees just before the flowering of the new year’s fruit. Fertilization of citrus should be done just after fruit sets and fruit is about ¼” in diameter.

Spring & Fall – Planting: We are nearing the end of prime weather for planting new trees. Mild weather during spring and fall are preferable for planting in the Phoenix area.

Article contributed by Dan Stevens, Certified Arborist, and owner of Living Tree Service.

For more information on trimming your treesn or tree removal, please call Sunny Mesa Landscaping at 480-832-3504.

Posted by: sunnymesainfo | May 7, 2010

Annual Flowers

Annual flowers are plants that grow from seed to seed and need to be replanted each year. They provide year round color and do a great job of filling in a space and providing color during any lag times. When you use  annual flowers in your garden there should never be a time when something is not in bloom. One of the great things about annuals is there is no long term commitment to them. Your garden can have a new look each year with a minimum investment.

Annual flowers can brighten up your lawn by adding a dash of color. They also come in a big array of sizes – ranging from 12-36 inches. Arranging the different sizes in your garden can give it depth and a unique look. Tall annual flowers grow just fine on their own – behind shorter ones or in front of taller ones.

Arizona doesn’t get the best moisture, so you’re probably wondering what annual flowers to plant. Many annuals have a long growing season in Arizona. The only thing you really have to worry about is the summer heat. Most annuals do pretty well, but consider giving them some shade in the hotter months, and cover them during frosts and this will extend their bloom time. For dry climate areas the best annual flowers to plant would be:

Zinnias 

Lantanas

Vincas

Porchulaca

Another great annual flower are marigolds. They do exceptionally well in Arizona and thrive most of the year including most of summer.

For more questions regarding annual flower or if you would Sunny Mesa Landscaping to plant some for you, please give us a call at 480-832-3504.

Posted by: sunnymesainfo | April 27, 2010

Fertilization

When is the right time to fertilize? Consider these four factors: climate, grass type, the fertilizer being used, and how you want your lawn to look. I know I want my lawn looking great and you probably do as well – in order for this to happen, fertilizing at least twice a year is a must. Fertilization is the least understood but one of the most important elements of our landscape.

There are two types of grasses: Warm Season & Cool Season. Each grass has its own growing season, which requires a different schedule for fertilizing. For the future, it is best to apply fertilizer when your lawn is actively growing. If you fertilize with nitrogen while your lawn is dormant, you can encourage weed growth, and ultimately waste fertilizer.

Warm season grasses grow during the summer months when it is warm, which requires fertilizing shortly after spring has sprung and in the late summer months. Cool season grasses tend to have two growing periods. The first is after the lawn’s return from winter dormancy and the second is during the early fall, when temperatures moderate and droughts and heat waves typically are gone.

Many times, we pour massive doses of fertilizer that is high in nitrogen and then wonder why we have insect and disease problems. These problems are stimulated by high synthetic nitrogen intake that makes our plants more susceptible to insects and disease problems. Plants are not meant to grow in spurts, but through a slow progression of soil building with such products as manure, compost and other natural organic products.

Now is the time to fertilize for the summer months. Call Sunny Mesa Landscaping to schedule a time for us to fertilize your lawn 480-832-3504.

Posted by: sunnymesainfo | April 12, 2010

Transition From Winter Lawns to Summer Lawns

With summer being right around the corner we are hoping this information will help you understand what is going on with the turf. If you have any questions, feel free to call at any time.

Turf Transition

At nighttime, low temperatures in the Valley start to rise up to the 60’s, which makes the Bermuda grass grow. As daytime temperatures rise up to the 90’s, the grass will begin to recede. It is during the transition period where both types of grass compete for space and water. The transition from Rye grass to Bermuda grass is a gradual process that lasts from the beginning of April and to the end of May. All grass should be converted into Bermuda grass by the beginning of June.

Expect to see changes in the turf during this transition period. Watering should be monitored to ensure that the Bermuda grass starts growing in. As the Rye grass dies off, the turf may appear off color or yellow and there may be some areas that appear dry. This is a temporary condition that improves as the Bermuda grass fills in. Once the Bermuda starts filling in, the water should be increased and fertilizer should be applied for healthy turf.

Stay tuned for the next blog post, it will focus on fertilization. If you would like a FREE bid and want your lawn to look like this…

Give Sunny Mesa Landscaping a call 480-832-3504.

Posted by: sunnymesainfo | March 26, 2010

When to Aerate Your Lawn

Aerating is the process of punching holes about three to four inches deep into your lawn to allow water, oxygen, fertilizers, and other nutrients to penetrate the soil and better reach the roots of your grass. Aerating is usually done  with an aerator by pushing hollow cylinders into the ground and forcing out plugs of soil to the lawn surface. Your lawn requires three elements for survival: 1. moisture 2. nutrients 3. air

When your lawn gets heavily compacted (from foot traffic or automobiles), its roots don’t get the air they need to survive and grow. Additionally, aerating also allows water and nutrients to better penetrate into the soil and to the grass roots.

Warm Season Grasses Cool Season Grasses
late-spring to early summer late summer to early fall

When you’re considering to aerate, here are a few tips to remember:

  1. If you are planning on fertilizing or reseeding your lawn, it is best to aerate right before. This will help the fertilizer, seed, and other nutrients penetrate your lawn and soil, give you better results.
  2. Try not to aerate during times of drought and high heat. Instead of helping your lawn, it may allow moisture to escape the soil faster and remove small layers of thatch that can actually benefit your lawn. This moderate layer of thatch can help to insulate your soil from sunlight and excessive evaporation.
  3. Try to water your lawn one day prior to aerating. This will help soften the soil and allow for better penetration by the aerator.
  4. If you just planted a new lawn, it is best to wait until your grass roots are well established to begin aerating. Pre-mature aerating can cause excess moisture/water buildup and can prevent the grass roots form getting enough air to grow deep.

Call Sunny Mesa Landscaping at 480-832-3504 for a FREE QUOTE!

Posted by: sunnymesainfo | March 22, 2010

Welcome to the New Sunny Mesa Landscaping Blog

Sunny Mesa Landscaping at your service! We are excited to get this blog going and help those who have any questions regarding landscaping. Sunny Mesa serves commercial and homeowner association properties in the East Valley with a special emphasis on Class A properties.

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